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Climbing edging and smearing reddit Your body, strengths, etc. Some slabs I've worn soft downturn shoes because they just work better on the individual climb than a flat stiff shoe. My max grade is V7, but I’m usually climbing V5 and projecting V6, so I know a good edging shoe would be beneficial, but it feels like a flat shoe is better for volumes and vertical terrain. Closure system I currently have the evolve shamans and although these are great at climbing overhangs, they tend to lack on edges and smearing. Are they also posted on the FB page? It looks like he's focusing on keeping the heels down. Basically, to smear, you place your foot onto the rock (a dish or dip is helpful here), drop your heel, and press your body weight into your foot. Also, I find smears a little more trustworthy if my feet are a little high. Mythos works, but it's still not my go to shoes. However, at a place like Smith Rock where edging and pocket toe-ins are standard fare, standing up on that piece of plastic can make a piss-poor dime edge feel like a stair step. It requires precise footwork and strong ankles. I always toe-in if I'm not smearing or using the outside edge. This plastic bit in my experience can make your practicing technique suffer quite a bit, because you lose sensitivity for poor footholds and smearing. EDIT: I settled on La Sportiva Theory shoes after trying on and climbing in about 6 different shoes (Drago, Furia Air, Solution, Solution Comp and Theory all in various sizes) I have tried la sportiva genius, but the fit is not that comfortable for me. Dragos are NOT good at edging, although some people make it work because they like the other aspects of it enough. EDGING / SMEARING / HEEL: I’d give these a ‘poor’ rating for edging, but it’s not really what they’re built for. Break in is about ~90 hours of climbing, and then get them resoled with C4 rubber. Typically you need edging when you try to place your feet on a foothold that’s too small to fit your whole foot. I was wanting a shoe that is primarily good at edges as I don't smear all too often but being ok at smearing would be nice. Did you mean get the inside edge smearing at the junction between the top of the hold and the volume? So the ball of my foot should be smearing part of the volume and the hold at the same time and not just the hold? Shoes affect the performance of edging and smearing but you can do either in any shoe. I'd say there are even going to be cases were you smear on the wall mostly and are pressing sideways into the hold to generate power. Nov 15, 2023 · In a nutshell, while smearing involves relying on your shoe’s friction against the rock to maintain balance, edging is all about utilizing the narrow edges of your climbing shoe to find purchase on small ledges or holds. Jan 1, 2025 · Edging and Smearing. Edging: Using the edges of climbing shoes to stand on small footholds. Smearing: Applying pressure to the sole of the shoe on a sloping or flat surface, often used on slabs or when edging is not possible. Any thoughts or specific shoes you like for indoor slab/vertical boulders? You'll generally either be using your toe to edge on these, but there are certainly circumstances where smearing works great. It takes a little practice route-finding on slab, but everybody gets it eventually. I'll use a bit of the edge of my big toe, and all the other surfaces, but my foot never comes close to being parallel with the rock. The C4 edges probably 70% as well (and is basically the same edging if it’s <45F) but smears much better. The Vim has almost no structure, and thus sacrifices edging ability. It’s called edging because you place your feet on tiny narrow edges of rock, often thinner than 3 fingers. The footage of the setter doing it helps. In my research, I came to the dragos and multiple people (online) said they were good at edges. See full list on thewanderingclimber. When you do the heel down smear, that means your pressing your foot into the wall to maintain friction. Does anyone have a recommendation of high performing shoes outside of La Sportiva thats good for smearing, sticky, but still have an ok edging performance? Preferably on the softer side Miuras, especially the Velcro version, have a more aggressive downturn than Mythos, which are essentially flat from the toe to the heel. The downturn helps with steeper climbing, helping you to pull your body closer to the wall with your toes, but smearing on vertical faces works best when you keep your heels lower than the foothold, which is harder to do with a stiff downturned shoe. The Chimera are a little better at standing on smaller things, but still not as good at it as the Shamans. I think the whole smear vs edging argument boils down to how you apply pressure to the wall with respect to your foot's rubber. Crimping and Open-Hand Techniques Edging is a type of feet position when climbing. Both are definitely better at smearing tho. A stiff shoe will edge better a soft shoe will smear better. Where the Vim falls short at edging it more than makes up for in smearing ability. Aug 19, 2024 · Amazing edging performance on vertical and slightly overhanging walls // Surprisingly good smearing performance for such an edging-specific shoe // Aggressive downturn and asymmetry allow for solid “grabbing” performance // The split-sole design minimizes foot fatigue after multiple pitches of edgy climbing // Ample toe rubber allows for competent toe hooking // Pointy toe shape is “Can edge” and “good at edging” are very different. are different than everyone else. You'll have better luck smearing on little micro features than you will smearing somewhere randomly. Whenever it approaches parallel it feels like it pushes my foot off the hold. com Aug 4, 2023 · What Is Smearing in Climbing? Smearing is a rock climbing technique that involves using a smooth, featureless portion of the wall as a foothold. Your climbing shoe rubber has a lot of friction only if there is a lot of force being applied to it. My previous Scarpa Veloces were comfortable but didn’t provide enough support for edging or small footholds. The XS edge is viable if it’s really thin edging slab but for pure friction it sucks unless it’s stupidly hot outside. . mdj jaieohc nqkrl wkjotzx iltox ouv yzyh tkv clybf crtbqr |
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