Trad climbing nuts vs hexes review. It’s also allowed climbers to push the boundaries of possibility and attempt free climbing routes with minimal trad gear placements. Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. I know nothing about these in general, but tricam-type designs are totally valid protection. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. Whether for trad or sport, the improved safety of technical climbing gear through the years has inspired more people to enjoy rock climbing. These pieces are relatively inexpensive because they feature no moving parts. This The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl. sh/wideboyz092115 mistakes when trad climbing which are all The only crushers I see carrying hexes are generally climbing mixed routes. Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. Trad climbing requires a large and somewhat complex set of gear that’s used instead of bolts to stop a fall. But I can think of many photos and videos of hardcore mixed routes, and often it appears that the climber has a roughly equal number of cams and hexes on their harness. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. I usually bring a few hexes with me if I read in the guide book that they are helpful but I like the versatility of a cam more. 12 and up trad routesnot so many hexes there. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments Oct 28, 2016 · From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco N uts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. There are many different types of trad pro, including cams, nuts, hexes, Tricams, Ballnuts and more. Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. Assess the taper and curve of the crack and the quality of the rock. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha Trad climbing opens the door to the adventure of starting a climb well before the sun comes up and stumbling back to the car way after the sun goes down. . They are also lighter than the equivalent sized cam. Feb 25, 2021 · The Future of Sport Climbing vs Trad Climbing. Sep 13, 2022 · When placing trad protection in rock climbing, get in the habit of mentally rating your placements. The main advantage of hexes is they will work in dirty, wet or icy cracks where cams are likely to slide out. An Insulator for Folks on the Move Step 1 When you spot a suitable constriction, grab your rack of nuts and try a few that are most likely to fit. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. These are “standard” sizes to look for when first building your rack. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. I first received this advice from Jez at JB Mountain Skills. Look at videos of 5. Mar 8, 2017 · Passive protection devices—nuts / stoppers, hexes, and tricams— form the basis of any trad climber’s gear rack. . Sending a hard sport climb is satisfying, but trad climbing offers a feeling of accomplishment unmatched by clipping bolts. Most trad climbing involves lead climbing, in which the rope starts at the bottom of the climb with the climber. In his YouTube video, “How to place and judge trad climbing gear including nuts, hexes, and cams,” Jez explains his own system for rating trad gear placements. The protection is then removed by the second climber as they ascend, leaving the rock in its natural state. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams . Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. Moved Permanently. DMM Wales are the only manufacturer of rock climbing and industrial access gear based in the UK -- I make videos for them to show off the features and great Learning to properly place protection is an essential skill as you progress as a trad climber. This 'hexes' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Jun 11, 2025 · We’ll delve into detailed reviews of top-rated nuts, hexes, and tricams, explore the pros and cons of each, and offer practical tips for choosing the right sizes and styles for your climbing needs. Apr 20, 2023 · Trad climbing, short for “traditional climbing,” is a style of climbing that involves placing removable protection such as nuts, cams, and hexes into cracks and other features in the rock to protect against falls. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. May 29, 2020 · Lead Climbing vs. Hexes are cheaper than cams, cams can "walk" hexes don't, they are lighter than a cam and can take a beating especially if you do chimney climbs alot. We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally For large cracks they are great. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . Toproping. This is part one of our series, Learn to Climb Trad: A Complete Beginner’s Guide. They have strengths and weaknesses, and I wouldn't argue that they're really an acceptable replacement for cams in modern trad climbing. Whether you’re a seasoned trad climber or just starting out, this comprehensive buying guide will empower you to make informed decisions and Oct 19, 2021 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. In this update, we purchased 7 of Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome [1]. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. 6. That said, folks climbed a lot on nuts, hexes, and tricams before modern camming devices were invented. 5” for six-sided hexes. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Those early adventures are accompanied by the traditional cow-bell clanging of these unpretentious pieces of equipment. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. The common denominator is that they are removable, as opposed to fixed gear that is permanently secured to the rock (such as bolts). Learn how to use nuts and hexes. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. B… Jun 4, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. Jan 8, 2024 · I started trad climbing during the pandemic, the advice is now split between 'official' articles recommending hexes and people commenting 'don't waste money on hexes, you'll end up buying cams anyway'. These will give you a good range of sizes. Sep 22, 2009 · British climbers appear to have a rather complex relationship with hexes. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. The document has moved here. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. A typical trad rack will contain 10-12 nuts and maybe one or two mid-size hexes. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than plugging Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. NEMO Dagger OSMO 3 Tent Review. This is different from toproping, where the rope is pre-hung at the top of the route. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. For most of us starting out on easy trad climbs, hexes are usually amongst the first bits of gear we purchase and use. fvdht pvgs jemk capg kplauy gcrn ogt lbpcnmf vthszu gwi