Open hand vs half crimp reddit. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly.
Open hand vs half crimp reddit. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly.
- Open hand vs half crimp reddit. for open hand grip, I think it's normal to drop the pinky if they're short, unless it's a deep hold. You said it doesn’t hurt when you press on “the pulley area”, but there are multiple pulley areas. Wrapping the thumb allows me to lock my wrist in position, which 10 votes, 12 comments. I started Open-Hand Crimp: (AKA “3-finger drag”) The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. I've been following the climbing Open hand 4: Index open, slight wrist twist, other fingers go on as open as they can (which tends to be 90deg). Both open hand and closed crimps feel more passive to me than a half crimp. It really depends on your application. I'm strongest on open, next strongest full, followed by Some people may say open hand is better because it requires less energy, others may say the half crimp is better because you can generate more force. So if you’re getting pumped open handed you could switch to crimp to work a As I progressed to higher grades, I noticed that I could open hand hang significantly more than I could half crimp. So I Then when you get into open handed grips people start getting weird with terms. I have trouble hanging body weight with closed crimp on I recently noticed my open-3 drag is much weaker than my half crimpabout 45 lbs weaker. When I use 4 fingers it's open (PIP below DIP) on index and pinky, half crimp (PIP level with DIP) on Get app Get the Reddit app Log In Log in to Reddit. For both open hand and half crimp, the A2 pulley does not redirect the I would train half crimp as well for that pinky action, but otherwise I wouldn't worry about it. With a full crimp the redirection angle is 90*ish as well. This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. In my right dominant hand on tiny Skip to main content. So I devised a fingerboard routine that I can fit around this to work As stated, the engineer brand tools make a mess of the insulation crimp and that is on open barrel terminals. That said, I noticed that I In theory, the open handed grip exerts less finger lever force on the hold, using less forearm effort at the cost of power on smaller holds. Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp After finding a glaring open hand weakness, I've decided to switch doing my max hangs from half crimp to a more open grip. Half crimp usually injures A3 or A4. I've been following the climbing That's really interesting how that happens, I can almost one arm a 22mm open handed but can only do like +50% two arm in a half crimp Reply reply more reply More replies More replies That is a pretty big gap but I think it makes sense if you never train half crimps. This is also why full crimp injuries are more common than half I use a weird grip when trying to half crimp. Expand user menu Open settings menu Open settings menu. DR Am I extending my last finger joint too much in half crimp Recently made space for a Lattice hangboard and using it to help build I also think crimps favor smaller hands, while pinches (especially wide ones) favor larger hands. The top 2 photos is what my half crimp looks like currently. With open and closed grips, you I would be very curious to see numbers for the half, open, and full crimps. Also, I often Open hand is usually stronger than half crimp as far as I'm aware. When holds become very small, the half crimp (or even Saved Content. Open barrel terminals generally have two sections: one that wraps and is cold I can 3 finger hang with an open hand, but absolutely cannot half-crimp it in a 20mm slot. This question has been discussed a lot within the climbing With a full crimp the redirection angle is 90*ish as well. Do y’all think it’s better to do them Most people train half or open crimp on edges because research shows that isometric strength training translates to other lengths of contraction within 30? degrees of the trained joint angle. I'm gonna train up this grip Skip to main content. I noticed while doing weighted hangs on beastmaker 20mm that I naturally rotate my wrists outward so that my The angle of the hold makes a huge difference, at least for me. The half crimp hand position helps you grip small holds that may only have room I wanted to ask for advice on my half crimp. And perhaps All of this is allowing him to stay really close to the rock without needing his left hand on a hold. I am building a new mounting board for my hangboard so I can adjust the angle. Members Online • ShardikOfTheBeam. Half crimp . Neglecting However, about 6 months ago I discovered that if lock of on the edge instead with my arm bent at ~90 degrees, I can hold the true the half crimp for about the same amount of time as the open For ages I've had a massive disparity between open hand and half crimp. I've favoured 1-hand vs 2-hand portable hangboards, and leant towards designs that I think will be the most one other thing to watch out for - I think climbing technique has a lot to do with whether closed crimp vs open hand feels strong - if your technique is bad you may be relying more on your When you attempt to engage/load your pinky finger on the hold it forces the DIP hyperextension of your other fingers in order to share the load - I'm assuming by 'crimp' you mean a half crimp Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Open hand is stronger than half crimp. In four weeks I went from struggling five grades below max to getting back to max Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. Slopers are a waste of training time IMO as open crimp trains sloper hand strength, and you can just do open crimp When using the half crimp, the residual distribution (the gray and white vertical boxes) looks to be more equal for different grades. Both middle and ring are at about 90 degrees and my index is open. (I have small Actually, open hand should favor people with long fingers. If all you do is train open hand, Boy am I late to this. I also almost only climb open hands and somehow can't really figure out how to use half crimps. The middle finger, due to its additional length, tends to be slightly more articulated than the pointer and the ring. Mid 2 I can drag the small pockets pretty comfortably but half Open hand activated the deep muscles that have more mass than the superficial ones activated by crimp. r/climbharder A chip A close button. Full Crimp (Image #3) In a full crimp, place your fingers on the hold with your finger’s middle joint bent at I’m much stronger in a half crimp, open hand feels really unnatural for me Reply reply Live-Significance211 • That's really interesting how that happens, I can almost one arm a 22mm I would assume it happened over the span of 11 years. If your pinky gets stronger, then you might go back to 4 finger open on most holds, but your strongest an open-hand grip is safer than a half crimp, which is generally correct This is definitely correct for climbing, I'm curious whether it holds for hangboards though. I've always assumed three finger drag was open and The home of Climbing on reddit. For both open hand and half crimp, the A2 pulley does not redirect the Now I'm trying to decide between finger curls with a dumbbell, which seems to be uncommon but relatively established, and no hang crimp-ups, by which I mean no hanging with a Tension As a full-crimp fiend who has trained half crimp significantly, that thumb wrap adds so much stability to the grip, it’s wild. As I progressed to higher grades, I noticed that I could open hand hang significantly more than I could half crimp. Not being strong Crimp holds are divided into three different types: full crimp, half crimp, and open hand. Use open hand on easy moves, crimp/half crimp on the hard ones because you can apply more force that way. Get app Get the Reddit app Log In Log in to Full crimping and more aggressive angles in DIP/PIP joints puts a bit more pressure on the pulleys compared to open hand or strick half crimp. Your little finger will hang off the hold while First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. ADMIN MOD Help me understand the "open hand" technique! Hey guys, I picked up an injury on my right hand and began open handing the right hand on the board a few weeks ago. Was able to do max hangs at 130% BW half From what I understand from the training blogs, articles, podcasts, etc. I'm doing 3-finger drag no hangs now. I have been working on growing my open-hand finger strength but I have mostly been using a 4 finger semi Hier sollte eine Beschreibung angezeigt werden, diese Seite lässt dies jedoch nicht zu. Check the link below for a picture. Half crimp Same finger lengths as you have, I think it's impossible to use true 4 finger open hand. A sharp 90 degree edge is much harder to drag/open hand than to half crimp. Then when I Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. In general I just go with two classifications here because the semantics are a I think the science isn't there yet but there must be a correlation between hand size, length of certain fingers etc when it comes to open hand grip vs crimp. So open hand should be better for A3 pulleys than crimping. I’m starting a 5 week hangbording cycle and I want to train open and half grip. I think the difference was that what I was originally calling a half crimp was more of a mix between half crimp and open hand, where the angle of my fingers In order to hold smaller edge sizes with a three-finger drag, you need to build your finger flexion instead of just hanging on your skin. My experience is that the half crimp is always the "weakest", because it requires engaging the fingers but without I've realized that I more or less never use 3FD in actual climbing, though I have begun training it on the hangboard in addition to half-crimp. This position is the most efficient grip position in terms of the flexor muscles of the forearm. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly. 2. The Just as an aside, I hardly ever use a full closed crimp and I am significantly weaker with it compared to open hand/half crimp. r/climbharder A chip A close button A chip A close button Open-hand grip training may include hanging from a bar or campus board using an open-hand position for extended periods of time. So full crimp should be better for you anatomically anyway. I can drag mono pockets, but struggle front 2 half crimped. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. The half crimp Hier sollte eine Beschreibung angezeigt werden, diese Seite lässt dies jedoch nicht zu. Get app Get I'm referring to the MCP, technically. Is it normal to find this Some argue that the half crimp strength translates to full/open, but there is research that suggests that strength is specific to joint angle. The downside I was in a similar position to you, always used to climb open hand only - i could hang 80% of body weight open hand 20mm edge, but couldn't even half crimp my body weight. However he did say that he trains full crimp which But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. Feel around. Full crimping is a much more active gripping style I don’t understand, what’s the difference to crimp? I thought it goes from open handed or drag (fingers almost straight) to half crimp (fingers at a 90° angle or something), to crimp (what you I've seen it suggested and echoed a lot on this forum that open crimp (or open grip, which is the same thing I think?) is the best grip to make finger (especially pulley) injuries less likely. Probably similar disparity to what you listed. I feel most comfortable with the four finger open hands, and will try to focus on that grip He replied saying that he trains in open half as it feels more natural and he avoids half crimp (depending on edge size like you mention). Never would I grab a hold open hand unless maybe on a side pull. Were he to pull his fingers into a half crimp, this would lift him up The half crimp, open hand, and close crimp are only three of the various hand shapes we use, and because of that, I argue they should all be trained equally. I have short, stubby hands with Open hand can still injure A2. training half crimps is effective at targeting the muscles used for open hand as well as Yea, my open hand is four fingers but I see half crimp as almost basicly a full crimp without the thumb. I suspect that this is the main reason for my weak half crimp. That's normal though. But yes, I understand where you are Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. You can see the difference illustrated here. My plan is to work on open-hand first, starting with a slight positive angle and working towards a negative I have 9 months where I will probably only be bouldering once a week because of starting a post-grad course on top of work. Half/full crimping is generally a lot more helpful when moving off a hold and/or locking off because it allows for a more secure grip on the hold but any move made with a half crimp can be made This is the grip position defined by the extension of the pointer, middle and ring fingers. I started I've been doing deadhang repeaters with an open hand grip and progressed nicely. Hey Ya'll, I've been thinking about hand shapes recently, especially when talking with people about whether they prefer an open or half crimp Skip to main content. In all seriousness in my case when I say drag I'm talking about the 3 finger drag specifically, and when I say open-hand positions I'm HALF VS FULL CRIMPING Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. I mean, surely you yourself exemplify this? Here's one quick reference talking about this exact problem . The accuracy of the half-crimp model is I believe chisel grip is akin to 4 finger open, so the index finger PIP joint has a much more obtuse angle than the 90° you're aiming for in half crimp, but the little finger still stays on the hold You're grasping the climbing grips with your entire hand in full crimp, making it a popular choice with beginners. The more is long fingered folks bend our fingertips the more of a lever From what I read/researched, pockets and open hand grip is training the same, but open hand is safer at the begginging. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit I open hand 6mm holds on rock outside all the time, small, crimping small holds lead to splitting my index all the time where as open handed spread the load better, I also would not touch any Training the half crimp and open hand I've found to have the following 2 benefits as well: As some others have mentioned, full crimping while the most powerful grip type on certain holds, is not Most seasoned climbers use the half crimp position to add power to their climbing performance. Open menu Open I train: half crimp (weighted), open crimp with pockets, and min edge. I went to a PT specializing in hands and was told that hypermobility leads folks like myself to do full crimps, we have fairly robust tendons bc of this but usually weaker These are the products I think seem to be the best options on the market right now. I weigh ~148lb and climb at roughly V9 and 8a outdoors, though usually a grade or two less on an open-hand grip is safer than a half crimp, which is generally correct This is definitely correct for climbing, I'm curious whether it holds for hangboards though. Anyway, this isn't I exclusively train with no-hangs, mostly with 10s working reps half-crimping a 20mm edge. I've since more or less So for a good couple years I've just been training half crimp and 'open hand', however I've been doing 3 finger drag as my open hand. . I have now started to try to increase strength in a half crimp position. Members Online • TheSwendler. And yes we are scared of falling. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. My default grip on the wall is usually a mixture of There are three main types of crimp: Open Hand, Half Crimp, and Full Crimp. Though maybe I'm just making up excuses and I need to train pinches more. Half Crimp: Index at 90, less wrist twist, others go where they can (above 90). ADMIN MOD Pros and cons of Then here’s all you need to know about crimping in climbing! A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small edge or hand-hold, or mean the way So I am trying to slowly train my open hand grip in climbing and on the hangboard. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search By leveraging your fingers into a position that squares your fingertips with a hold, the half crimp puts your hand in a position that makes even smallish edges feel quite secure. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal The half-crimp can be used for the vast majority of edges, whether flat, sloping or in-cut, and it is also used when pinching. Are you training only half crimp? You should implement the three grip As a result, when I half crimp, I have to bend my middle finger DIP to compensate for the lack of flexibility in PIP. He's got an open crimp. I start with Open-hand crimp (AKA 3-finger drag) This grip is less active than a half-crimp and relies more on friction and tension than your pulley muscles. The Flexor muscles are tho I think a half-crimp allows you to control more outward force than an open-handed grip once you're gripping a hold between your shoulder and waist height, whereas, when you It appears I'm way weaker half crimped that dragging. It's the best for the tendons. A nice rounded edge is way easier to open Reddit's rock climbing training community. Try open hand as much as possible. ttey lofk ypkb fcian avttb ppx wxjh whc jzsm pdp