Half crimp. The full crimp is more suited for square-cut .
Half crimp I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. In dieser Variante des Half Crimps nutzt du nur drei Finger, Zeige-, Mittel- und Ringfinger. It is also quite simple, with all fingers bent at a 90-degree angle (the pinky finger may straighten slightly) and the thumbs disengaged to the side of the hand. Half crimp while still having an injury risk has much less of one than full crimping. Half crimping stresses the fingers more than open crimping, but you will find that it is a much stronger grip. com May 10, 2022 · The half-crimp can be used for the vast majority of edges, whether flat, sloping or in-cut, and it is also used when pinching. The accuracy of the half-crimp model is higher, hence half crimp is a more reliable measure for climbing performance (grade). Die Hand liegt dabei offen an der Leiste an und die Sehnen sind nicht aufgestellt. May 1, 2024 · This hold isn’t as active as a half-crimp and relies more on friction and tension than your pulley muscles. Half Crimp. Hypermobile as well. Higher risk than drag positions. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. Edit to add a picture of what I mean by my thumb reaching the side of my index finger in half crimp. Both involve gripping with your fingertips and locking your finger joints . The half crimp is the grip position in which most climbers feel strongest. Unless you are really pulling on that project, I suggest half crimping for the majority of your crimps. Oct 4, 2017 · When using the half crimp, the residual distribution (the gray and white vertical boxes) looks to be more equal for different grades. Nov 9, 2022 · Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers. To perform a half-crimp, a climber’s index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle while the pinky is straight (simply because it is Apr 5, 2018 · In half crimp PIP is at 90 degrees and DIP is straight. The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. By leveraging your fingers into a position that squares your fingertips with a hold, the half crimp puts your hand in a position that makes even smallish edges feel quite secure. To that effect, the addition of the pinky makes aiming between holds significantly easier. Feb 24, 2023 · While grip position may vary based on your goals, to protect against injury, train the half-crimp/semi-crimp position—without your thumb (right photo). Camp 1: -Half crimp = hyperextension of DIP (B in picture linked below) -Full crimp = half crimp as described above + thumb lock over index finger (C in picture linked below) Oct 15, 2021 · The half crimp position and full crimp position are nearly identical with one key difference. Meistens genügt der Half Crimp, um in den nächsten Zug zu kommen. Yes, it is cold here Sep 11, 2023 · Im Half Crimp bist du zudem weniger verletzungsanfällig als im Full Crimp. Jun 4, 2025 · A half crimp is halfway between the open and full crimp. Climbers are more concerned with grip technique than adjusting body weight properly. Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp may provide better traction or on larger edges an open/drag grip may provide a more restful alternative, but generally speaking, the half crimp is the way to go. The one-armed 20 mm lift uses deadlift form: Stand with your feet shoulder-width or wider. Whereas half crimp is all about engagement of the muscles in your forearm without the thumb mechanical advantage. Front 3 half crimp: Good for big moves (pinkie doesn’t catch) and smaller width edges. Sep 27, 2024 · This fail-safe is when your half-crimp is compromised, and you fall into an open-hand grip. Three-Finger-Drag. Is the taped DIP joints just to prevent excessive DIP hyperextension? For me true half crimp with index 90, has my middle finger with my DIP hyperextended slightly and PIP above 90. And in full crimp PIP is slightly less than 90, and DIP is overextended to past straight line, and again they add up to 90. I use my thumb as the measuring stick to see where I’m at in a half crimp. With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. I am going to speak in anatomical terms to avoid confusion. Half-Crimp: The half-crimp is the grip with the most applications while climbing. Full crimp: Good for small edges. Climbers don’t simply get injured from full crimping; they get injured because they aren’t listening to their bodies. In both the half crimp grip and full crimp grip, your index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and pinky grip the rock surface, and your fingers lock at the second joint. When to Use Half crimp vs. Jan 19, 2021 · The extension of the pointer and the pinky allow for the relatively efficient use of the flexor muscles while half crimp position of the middle two fingers bring the palm a bit closer to the wall and allows for more controlled power generation. Normal half crimp index, and ring slightly below 90. In open grips, my thumb will feel relaxed and is peacefully dangling off to the side. Feb 2, 2025 · This is also why full crimp injuries are more common than half crimp injuries. But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. Aug 15, 2017 · To half crimp, increase contact with the hold by bending 90 degrees at the middle knuckle. Yes, I climbed this past weekend. Full crimp. But when I engage my thumb and it begins to move up closer to my fingers, I start to enter the half crimp. The full crimp is more suited for square-cut See full list on thewanderingclimber. Perhaps the ‘Pièce de résistance’ of climbing grips, the ‘Half-Crimp’ is the most versatile finger position, performing well on crimps, ledges and slopey holds. There’s a reason people opt for half crimp over full for the majority of the time though. . Due to the higher forces put through the joints and pulleys it should be trained via climbing Half crimp. Climbers seem to fall into 2 camps with regard to definitions of half vs full crimp. vlhntephfnpzsthzohimabezvsibnxaelwwwjztsfxnbndmazvcpfjga